“THOSE MARKS ON YOUR CUTTING board look like words in an ancient language,” observed Prosatio Silban’s customer. “They are, actually,” the cook explained. “The story it tells has been written by me almost every day for all my professional life,…
Category: Food
Reflections in a rib eye.
How to Dress a Salad
THIS IS A DEVICE OF my own invention, based on a semi-traditional vinaigrette formula, with additives. It will keep unrefrigerated for a couple of weeks (perhaps longer, but at a salad or two a week I haven’t had a chance…
A Very Good and Simple Stir-Fry
AS THE TITLE INSINUATES, HERE is a quick solo dinner that takes about 20 minutes (mostly because that’s how long the rice cooks) and is nourishing, cheap and tasty. 1. Start fixing some rice of your choice (1:2 rice:water ratio…
Why I Love: Cooking (Rewind)
IT’S THE PROCESS OF SCRAWLING ingredients on a shopping list, buying them, unpacking them, staging them, using them. It’s the quiet alchemy of watching those ingredients transform into something delicious and nourishing. It’s the adrenaline rush of following a new…
Why I Love: Grocery Shopping
IT’S THE ANTICIPATORY PROCESS OF scrawling ingredients on a shopping list. It’s the simple pleasure of browsing a well-stocked and -stacked produce display. It’s the ritual of interacting with the people at the butcher/fish/cheese counters. It’s the Dad-inspired satisfaction of…
5 Thoughts: Confessions of a Vicarious Eater
1. “WHAT DID YOU EAT?” THIS question works its way into every conversation I have or had with someone (online and off) relating to culinary experiences. 2. There’s a reason for this: I am obsessed with matters gastronomical. Not in…
First Graf: The Physiology of Taste
THE FIRST BOOK THAT ACTUALLY got me thinking about food as something other than tasty fuel with which to stuff my face was Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin’s 1825 work, The Physiology of Taste; or, Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy. Part travelogue, part…
Eats: Freeform Chicken Meatballs with Carrots and Yogurt Sauce
THIS COMES FROM EPICURIOUS.COM, A foodie website whose daily emails are proffered hand-in-glove with that other Conde Nast staple, Bon Appetit. Their recipes are a something of a cut above basic cookery, just challenging enough to stretch your fledgling cook-wings…
Eats: Slow Cooker Orange Chicken
MUCH AS I LIKE RESTAURANTS, especially Chinese restaurants, there are some things I’ve learned to like better (and cheaper) from my own kitchen. This recipe (for Slow-Cooker Orange Chicken) is evidence. It’s a bit of a process to prepare —…
Why I Love: Restaurants
IT’S THE ATMOSPHERE. IT’S THE background music of cutlery-clinked plates and conversation. It’s the initial pleasure of sitting down at “your” table. It’s having a skilled and knowledgeable waitron. It’s eating what I wouldn’t (or couldn’t) cook for myself. It’s…
Cook’s Toolbox
ONE OF THE FIRST QUESTIONS a new home-cook asks is, “Besides food, what do I need in order to cook?” Fortunately, someone has supplied the answer. Despite the odd spelling, thekitchn.com is probably my favorite foodie website. Its editors send…
One Person’s Pastry is Another Person’s Ladder
CUPCAKES RULE. THE SOFT, FITS-IN-THE-HAND-SIZED treat, sometimes filled with flavored cream (and always with cream on top), is my favorite dessert. Shabbat dinner wouldn’t be Shabbat dinner without one (or maybe two). But cupcakes as societal re-entry mechanism? Better still.…