THE AUTHOR OF THIS PIECE is a “born and bred New Yorker,” but even here in the sticks some things are sacrosanct when it comes to that most iconic of Jewish foods. I agree with much of what she says, am unfamiliar with part of it (again, we miss some things in the Valley) and was frankly astonished by one (see: “rainbow bagel“). Your culinary mileage may vary, but if you were raised eating bagels (or even came to them later in life), it’s worth your while to check out this article for — to paraphrase Frank Herbert — the forms that must be obeyed. Smacznego, b’tayavon and bon appetit!